PROFILE: T'Keyah Crystal Keymah

Actress, writer, producer, dancer, singer T'Keyah Crystal Keyman is a quiet storm. She is best known for her ubiquitous work on the Emmy Award winning comedy, In Living Color where she won many fans with stunning impressions and an unending stream of original characters. During her five seasons on In Living Color, Keymah earned an NAACP Image Award Nomination and a Soul Train Comedy Award Nomination. Keymah then played Scotti Decker, the sexy, general contractor on the ABC comedy, On Our Own, and Denise Everett, an earthy comedy writer, on Fox's The Show. She also guest starred on The John Larroquette Show, The Commish, Quantum Leap and Roc Live. Keymah gained a whole new set of fans and another two NAACP Image Award nominations as Bill Cosby's newest TV daughter, the flight attendant turned attorney turned aspiring chef turned wife and teacher Erica Lucas, on CBS' COSBY.

She had fun with the character and learned a great deal from one of her first inspirations, Bill Cosby. Today, Keymah stars as Tanya Baxter along with cast members, Rondell Sheridan, Orlando Brown, Kyle Massey and Raven on Disney Channel's new comedy series, That's So Raven. The series stars Raven, an eccentric and offbeat teenager who has the ability to foresee flashes of the future, albeit inaccurately at times which sends mother, Tanya and other family members on a psychic roller coaster of comedic turmoil.

From the age of three, Keymah entertained her family; singing, dancing and reciting original poems and stories. She wrote her first play and her first song in elementary school. In high school, she performed with the Mary Wong Comedy Group, and produced and directed theatrical variety shows! Florida A & M University's School of Business and Industry recruited the National Merit Scholar. On scholarship, Keymah excelled in their Leadership program. The university has since given her their second highest honor, 'The Meritorious Award', and she is listed among the 100 most influential FAMUans of the Century.

During and after college, she taught theater, dance, and pantomime. Keymah even served as an elementary substitute teacher by day, while working in many of Chicago's renowned theaters such as the Court, ETA and The Goodman (where she returned last spring to play Beneatha in Chuck Smith's production of A Raisin in the Sun). She also performed with companies such as Wavelength, Chocolate Chips, and Light Opera Works, sang with Rafo International Combo and danced with the Bill Cody Dancers and the Najwa (West African) Dance Corps (with whom she currently appears as a guest artist).

Keymah's theater performances include Love Letters (with David Alan Grier) and The Five Heartbeats Live (for which she received a NAACP Theater Award nomination).The critically acclaimed show garnered her NAACP Theater Awards for Best Actress and Best Play and an AUDELCO nomination for Best Solo Performance. Through a collaboration between The Eugene O. Neill Playwright Center and the Moscow Ministry of Culture, T'Keyah was part of a select group sent to Russia to workshop and perform in John Henry Redwood's drama, The Old Settler. Her new show, T'Keyah Live! ... Mostly: A True Variety Show, featuring actress Margaret Kemp, debuted at the 1999 National Black Theatre Festival to rave reviews and is gearing up for a national tour. Her film work includes Rusty Cundieff's Tales From the Hood, Quentin Tarantino's, Jackie Brown and Booker T. Mattison's The Gilded Six Bit.

Keymah's theater performances include Love Letters (with David Alan Grier) and The Five Heartbeats Live (for which she received a NAACP Theater Award nomination). Her critically acclaimed one-woman show, SOME OF MY BEST FRIENDS: A Collection of Characters toured the country with Keymah playing eleven characters. This critically acclaimed show garnered her NAACP Theater Awards for Best Actress and Best Play and an AUDELCO nomination for Best Solo Performance. She has performed as a singer in plays and at various venues in Chicago, Los Angeles and Senegal, West Africa. Through a collaboration between The Eugene O'Neill Playwright Center and the Moscow Ministry of Culture, T'Keyah was selected as part of a group sent to Russia to workshop and perform in John Henry Redwood's drama, The Old Settler. Her lastest show, T'Keyah Live! 'Mostly: A True Variety Show, debuted at the 1999 National Black Theatre Festival to rave reviews and began touring last year. Her film work includes Rusty Cundieff's Tales From the Hood, Quentin Tarantino's, Jackie Brown and Booker T. Mattison's The Gilded Six Bits. Keym'h has done voiceover guest spots on HBO's Happily Ever After, and WB's Hysteria, Pinky & the Brain and Batman Beyond. She created three of the voices for the Fox special Cool Like That over a dozen for WB's Waynehead and the voice of Tweety's newest pal, Aoogah, in Warner Brothers' video feature, Tweety's High Flying Adventure.

Keymah has also taken on the challenge of producing films! With actor, writer and director Bobby Mardis, she starred in and executive produced the award winning romantic thriller, One Last Time. For Showtime, the two also produced the acclaimed short subject, Circle of Pain, starring Todd Bridges and Glynn Turman which won 2nd place at the Charleston Worldfest International Film Festival and 3rd place at Temecula Valley International Film Festival. Keymah is now developing a romantic comedy that she will star in and produce through her own company, In Black World Inc. Undaunted by neither the scarcity of opportunity nor the negative images sometimes generated by mainstream Hollywood, she feels that it is imperative to avoid complacency and to "carve your own road." She feels that she has been very fortunate so far, but plans to push her luck!

T'Keyah Crystal Keymah enriches her life with charitable work and writing. Through her 2001 T'Keyah Live! tour, Keymah raised funds for the relief of our recent national tragedy. A member of Delta Sigma Theta, Public Service Sorority, Inc., she also works with the NABSIO prison outreach program and Color Me Bright Youth Foundation. Keymah is currently working on a screenplay and completed her new book on natural hairstyles, Natural Woman / Natural Hair. She has co-hosted the National ACT-SO Awards, and the Orange Bowl and Aloha Parades. She enjoys public speaking and directing workshops, especially for youth audiences, and tempers her schedule with a vegan diet, gardening, reading, daily exercise, meditation and prayer.

Below are pictures of Miss Keymah

Here is a comedy reel of Miss Keymah..you can see an awesome timeline of her hair growth!!! 

HAIR TYPES

We don't like to categorize our heads of hair on Nappturality, trying to maintain that ALL hair no matter how kinky, curly, wavy and zig zagged it is, is GOOD hair. However, it is sometimes necessary to differentiate hair types due to the differences in care and product usage necessary. What I don't want to do is bring in an ste in stone *labelling* system to categorize our hair in general terms, for instance, the "Andre" system of Type 4 hair.

Andre's type 4 hair was a blanket generalization of our hair which was said to be the "worst" hair out of his category system.

Eg: 4a = well at least you have some coils. 4b = get the straightener out and 4c = just shave it off and buy a wig.

What people don't realize is that it is rare to have just ONE Andre hairtype on your head. Andre just says it's a "4" and lumps us all into a,b,c or z depending on the level of nappiness and undesirability (badness). 

So there's another system: the LOIS system.

• L = l shaped strands
• O = round circular coils
• I = straight with angular or sharp bends
• S = s curls

Nappturality tried using this for a few months but it did not catch on. However I still feel it is the best characterization of our hair yet. I can guarantee you, you have these types of strands on your head in great amounts. No matter what "type" of hair you have.

Most napptural hair falls within the LOIS system. You may have a combination of all these strand types all over your head, or just dominated by one. The hair on top may be different from the hair underneath. Then there's the kitchen and hairline...

If you must use one of Andre's system types to name your hair, it is your choice. However keep in mind where this came from and learn more about your hair. You will find that that simplistic system does not do your beautiful crown the justice it deserves.

After washing your hair, pull a single strand out of your head, from underneath is the best place, since it is less likely to be damaged by the sun or dryness. Place it on a contrasting surface and study it... see how it falls. Does it curl up like slinky? Does it turn into a bunch of S's? Does it have sharp angles? Does it stay straight, with the occasional bend? When you roll it between your fingers does it "catch" or is it a "smooth" roll?

This is your first step in telling you how and why your hair does what it does.

Hair Types

We come in all shapes, sizes and colors... and our hair comes in all shapes, widths and textures. It is difficult to categorize hair because of all the variation that occurs. However, attempts have been made to categorize in an effort to help people better know their hair.

Black/afro-type hair is difficult to categorize for a few reasons:

1) our hair differs in pattern - coils, springs. zig zags, s-curves

2) our hair differs in pattern size - watch spring to chalk size

3) our hair differs in density - sparse, dense

4) our hair differs in strand diameter - fine, medium, wide

5) our hair differs in feel - cottony, wooly, spongy

And on one head it is possible to have all 5 category differences represented somewhere, each reacting differently to the same routine.

Andr� Walker, Oprah's stylist, came up with a system in his book, which put all hair into categories. Number 1 being straight Asian type hair and 4 being "kinky" or "nappy" or "tightly coiled" African American type hair. He then divided the numbers with a lettering system, 'a' being the straightest within a category, 'b' being the next curly.. etc and so on down.

Shine - hair that reflects light along its surface.Sheen - hair that sparkles as light bounces off it.

Patterns
L = BendO = CurlI = StraightS = Wave

Strands can beThick, Medium or Thin/Fine

One half of a piece of inexpensive sewing thread (such as the kind that is contained in those palm sized personal sewing kits) split in two is about the thickness of a medium strand size of human hair. If you hair is larger than this, then your strand size is thick. If you hair is smaller than the split thread, then your hair strand is thin, or fine. If you want to compare your hair strand to a split piece of thread, it can be done by moving the thread back and forth between your thumb and forefinger holding the free end taunt. 

Textures*
Thready - low sheen, high shine, low frizzWiry - sparkly sheen, low shine, low frizzCottony - low sheen, low shine, high frizzSpongy - high sheen, low shine, high frizzSilky - low sheen, high shine, low frizz

• Thready texture of hair usually has a low sheen, with high shine if the hair is held taunt (as in a braid), with low frizz. Wets easily but water dries out quickly.
• Wiry hair textures have sparkle sheen, with low shine and low frizz. Water beads up or bounces off the hair strands. Hair never seems to get fully wet.
• Cottony hair texture will have a low sheen, a high shine if the hair is held taunt and has high frizz. Absorbs water quickly but does not get thoroughly wet very fast.
• Spongy hair has a high sheen with low shine with a compacted looking frizz. Absorbs water before it gets thoroughly wet.
• Silky hair has low sheen, a very high shine, with a lot or low frizz. Easily wets in water.

How to determine which hair type you have:

1. Remove a single strand of the most common type of hair on your head. Aim for 70%, so if you have different textures, use the most common texture on your head.
2. The hair should be freshly washed without products applied to it and rinsed in cold water. Or, gently rinse a single hair with a little dish detergent and rinse in cold water.
3. Lay the hair on an absorbent paper towel to dry.
4. When the hair is completely dry, look at the pattern without touching it.

If the hair has all bends, right angles and folds with little to no curve then you are L.

If the strand is rolled up into the shape of one or several zeros like a spiral, then you are O.

If the hair lies mostly flat with no distinctive curve or bend you are I.

If the strand looks like a wavy line with hills and valleys then you are S.

It will be common to have a combination of the LOIS letters, (with more dominant) which can help you determine which daughter of LOIS you are. If you cannot see one letter over the others, then combine the letters. Example: LO or IL or OS.

With all this in mind, we'll combine Andre's system with LOIS for a general category, then further divide us into more detail. It is important to understand that every head of hair is different and it's impossible to include everyone's exact hair. A close-as mentality is best when viewing other women's hair.

THE TRUTHS ABOUT RELAXERS!

The Process 

Most of us have no idea what these relaxers really do to our hair... how they actually go about the process of straightening. There are two types of relaxers.  They are SODIUM HYDROXIDE (lye-based) and GUANIDINE HYDROXIDE (no-lye). Although the no-lye products are thought to be less damaging, both types are harmful to the hair because in order to straighten it, they must first strip it of its natural moisture and then break down the structure of the hair.

Let me briefly explain. The hair has two bonds, a physical bond and a chemical bond, referred to as the S and H bonds. These bonds create the S-shaped kink or curl in African-American hair. Chemically processing the hair changes the molecular structure by breaking down these bonds... thereby damaging the hair.  Once the bonds are broken, the hair loses its natural shape and elasticity, and can then be manually formed into straight hair. The changed S-shape bond can never be returned to its original healthy form. It has undergone a permanent change caused by chemical damage.

Hair Damage
Sodium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide both have a very high pH factor, meaning they are highly alkaline products. When applied to the hair, they immediately strip it of all moisture, because any retention of moisture would reduce the effectiveness of the straightener.  This is why a deep-conditioning treatment is always applied to the hair after the chemical process.  These treatments are designed to drive moisture back into the hair shaft and to coat the hair strand to make it look shiny and appear healthy, or in other words -- to camouflage the damage. But no hair that has undergone a chemical relaxer is healthy. It’s been purposely and permanently damaged by the chemicals... and hair can’t be damaged and healthy at the same time.

Relaxed hair is always dry.  This is why we’re constantly putting something on it.. oiling our hair and scalp two or three times a week. There are several reasons for this: 1) Start with the moisture-stripping process of the chemical relaxer that I spoke about in the above paragraph; 2) Add the steady regimen of hot-comb touch-ups, curling irons & flat irons (all work with heat which is drying to the hair) and hair sprays and styling/holding gels, (these contain alcohol which is drying to the hair). The natural oils our scalps produce can’t serve our hair’s needs. The scalp can’t manufacturer enough natural moisture to replenish the moisture we’re stripping from our hair on a daily basis; and 3) The products we usually use in an attempt to fight dryness (usually petroleum-based products, or "grease") don’t really add moisture to the hair at all. They simply coat the hair with petroleum to provide shine. At the same time, they clog the pores of the scalp so that the scalp can’t secrete its own natural moisture.

I always thought black hair either doesn’t grow as fast as Caucasian hair – or doesn’t grow at all.  WRONG!  All hair grows at the same rate – on average ½ inch per month.  But the reason that most black women have shorter hair is because of breakage. Why does the hair break?  Because of the harsh treatment we give it.  We strip it of its moisture in every way we possibly can!  So after a period of time (short for some, a little longer for others) the need for a cut to camouflage the damage done to your hair will become evident.  When your stylist suggests a “designer cut” (like the fade), that should be your cue that your hair has had enough.

Skin Absorption
In addition to the damage done to the hair by these chemicals, we should remember that the process involves more than simply straightening or texturizing the hair above the scalp.Chemicals are absorbed through the skin into the tissue, cells, and blood stream. We rub creams and lotions on our skin -- knowing that the skin will absorb them and be moisturized by them.  The medical industry administers drugs through skin absorption -- like the patches for smoking, sea-sickness, and birth control. The skin absorbs everything; and as strong as these chemicals are – causing sores and abrasions on the scalp – why wouldn’t some of it be absorbed through the skull and possibly into the brain?  

Causticity
The instructions on the relaxer boxes always say to wear gloves -- because the chemicals are caustic, however it is applied directly to the hair and scalp and left there for a period of time. Women experience burns and scabs from the toxic chemicals, and yet they continue to go back every few weeks for their regular dose of this creamy crack.  The FDA banned the manufacture of household liquid drain cleaners that have a higher than 10 percent solution of Sodium Hydroxide because it corrodes drain pipes. Because it is so strong, it may cause dermatitis of the scalp. If left on the hair more than 10 minutes, it will dissolve the hair, causing it to tear easily and become fragile and limp. Would anyone put this cream on their face, or on their arm, and leave it there for 10 or 15 minutes?  Then why put it on your head? 

Inhalation
And then there are the fumes. A study done by the Cancer Surveillance program at the University California School of Medicine found the number of cases of blood cancer to be excessive for females in the occupations “cosmetologist, hairdressers, and manicurist.”  Dyes, shampoos, conditioners, relaxers, permanent wave solutions, nail antiseptics, fungi, and bacteria are the suspect causes of this. Although the study does not specifically look for race in the findings, it is known that blacks in these beauty occupations typically have higher rates of blood cancer. Also, frequent  inhalation of this chemical can lead to lung damage.

Love Yourself
In order to stop these damaging practices, we must first learn to love ourselves as we are. Why should we continue the practice of chemically damaging our hair so that we can wear it in styles created for other hair textures when African-American hair can be styled beautifully just as it is? It’s not hard to work with, and there are lots of varieties of styles to choose from.. From locks to twists to coils to afros... from dressy up-dos to the no-care-hair of free-styling.  Our hair is not unmanageable, as many people think. My aunt once told me that our hair is easy to manage as long as we stop trying to force it to do things it wasn’t designed to do. 

Our skin is brown because it’s supposed to be.  Our hair is kinky because it’s supposed to be. It’s not something that needs to be fixed or hidden. It’s not something to be ashamed of.  It’s just hair. It’s not bad hair or good hair.  Just hair.  The idea that it must be fixed (or straightened) is left-over baggage from the days of slavery... an idea that we’ve held for so long that we no longer have a clue how to manage and maintain our hair in its natural state. We shun our own natural hair texture because we have been told for generations that nappy hair is bad.  We’ve been made to feel that the only way to attain ‘good’ hair is to straighten it. We’ve turned perfectly neutral descriptive words into negatives. Straight isn’t a negative word.  Wavy isn’t a negative word. When we can hear the words kinky and nappy as being purely descriptive and carrying no negative connotation, and when we can all “stop living the lye”, we will have made it to true acceptance of ourselves.

Link to original article Sandy's Journey 

DIY: DEEP CONDITIONER TREATMENTS

If your hair is dry, damaged, brittle, or over-processed, why not try a homemade deep conditioningtreatment? You can mend your hair for a fraction of the cost of using salon or drug store products, and you probably have the ingredients in your kitchen. Whether you choose an egg, mayonnaise, or oil pack, your hair and budget will both bounce back.

1. Egg. (Deep Conditioning Egg Treatment)

How it works: Eggs are rich in protein, a component of hair, so eggs restore and nourish your strands. Eggs are also renowned as one of nature's best moisturizers.

How to use it: Take 2 egg yolks, 2 teaspoons of a vegetable oil (olive oil is good), and 1/8 cup of water. (You may want to double or halve these amounts, depending on the length and texture of your hair.) Mix well and apply to hair after shampooing. Leave the mixture on for at least 15 minutes. Rinse with cool (not warm) water.

2. Mayonnaise. (Mayonnaise Mask for Distressed Hair)

How it works: The main ingredients in mayonnaise are eggs, vinegar, and oil. Each one of these elements is good for hair in its own right. Eggs nourish and fortify, vinegar adds shine, and oil moisturizes and protects. The mixture addresses all the problems of distressed hair.

How to use it: Apply about 1/2 cup of mayonnaise to your dry hair. (Avoid the scalp if your hair tends to be oily.) Massage in thoroughly, and then cover your hair with a disposable shower cap, plastic bag, or plastic wrap. For deep penetration, cover the plastic layer with a hot towel. Allow the mayonnaise to stay on for at least 15 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and then shampoo as usual.

3. Oil. (Homemade Hot Oil Treatment)

How it works: Hot oil is widely recognized as powerful therapy for damaged hair. The heat causes the hair to open and allows the oil to penetrate deeply. The oil softens, nourishes, moisturizes, and protects the strands. Oil is a good vegan option for those who don't use eggs.

How to use it: The best choice is virgin coconut oil, an ingredient that is solid at room temperature but liquefies when slightly warmer. Olive oil is also excellent for hair. If neither is available, any vegetable oil will work. Heat 1/4 cup of the oil until it is very warm to the touch but not uncomfortably hot. Apply the oil to your hair, section by section, to condition all areas evenly. If you tend to have oily hair, leave the oil off your scalp. Wrap your hair with a plastic bag or wrap to keep in the treatment and warmth. For even better results, cover with a hot towel from the dryer. Leave the oil on your hair for at least half an hour. Shampoo thoroughly until your hair is clean but not stripped.

These do-it-yourself treatments are safe, gentle, and natural, but that doesn't mean that they're ineffective. They're packed full of high-performing proteins, vitamins, and emollients. Your hair will look and feel better after one use, but treat it once a week to keep your hair in top condition.

INSPIRATION!!!!!!

Here are very inspiring pictures that I hope you all use as motivation!!

HELPFUL TIPS

No matter what your hair is like, loose, tight, dry, oily, soft, coarse, there are some tips you need to know about.

1. Hair growth is not the same thing as length retention. Hair grows at a set rate per person. How long you retain that length depends on how you treat the hair that is growing out of your scalp. If you use heat, rough brushing, chemicals, and rubber bands you will not retain the length you are getting because you are breaking your hair off. Don't be fooled into thinking your hair is not growing. It is. The problem is that you are breaking it off by doing the wrong things.
2. Water is important! Not the water you put ON your hair, but the water you put INTO your body. Hydration is essential to healthy, strong hair. If you don't drink enough water, your hair will dry out. The same thing goes for eating healthy. Junk food adds nothing to the health of your hair. Try to minimize your intake and you and your hair will reap the benefits.
3. HARD water is BAD water. You may be doing all the right things.. eating right, not using heat, not using petroleum products on your hair -- hyet your hair is still dry and hard. It could be your water. Invest in a water filter for your shower to strip the calciium, fluroride, chlorine and copper out of your water and you will see an amazing difference within one wash. Be sure to use a clarifier first time after your filter, to eliminate any buildup already present on your hair.
4. Combing from scalp to ends is bad. If you want to retain any length whatsoever, do not comb your hair from the scalp. Grip the hair at the scalp and comb the ends. Gradually move up until you get to your scalp, holding the hair all the time. Do not PULL your hair.
5. Combing/brushing while wet with conditioner on is GOOD. It minimizes breakage and helps distribute the conditioner throughout your hair.
6. Apple Cider Vinegar is GOOD. As a final rinse, with a ratio of 10:1, 10 being water, and 1 being the ACV, you will close the hair cuticle and find it easier to detangle and style your hair. Using llavender in this mix will help dilute any smell of vinegar you may have lingering afterwards.
7. UV's are BAD. Try to cover your hair if you will be spending lots of time in the sun. This will prevent drying out and breakage. Scarves are your friend.
8. HEAT styling is BAD. Period. If it burns your skin, it will burn your hair.
9. Split ends cannot be repaired. Split ends need to be cut off. If you don't cut them off, they will split up the hair shaft causing rough and dry hair. If you have split ends, visit the hairdresser and have them cut off. If you cut off yourself, use hairdresser scissors that have never been used to cut anything but hair. Otherwise you could be setting yourself up for more split ends!
10. Overuse of glycerine will cause your hair to dry out. Glycerin attracts moisture to itself. If the air is not humid, it will draw the moisture OUT of your hair to itself. It does not absorb. It sits on top of your hair. After it is shampooed out, your hair will be left without elasticity and dry. Use sparingly!

Eating Healthy Correlates to The Health of Natural Hair

Growing long, healthy locks is not child's play. It's a serious matter. If you take your health seriously you should have no problem growing strong, healthy, shiny hair.

You can attain hair like your favorite celebrity - without having to take out your check book or pay hundreds of thousands of dollars to a top of the line stylist to weave someone else's hair into yours (someone who's taken the time to grow the hair that your paying for, I might add).

Why not grow the hair yourself so that it's truly 'yours' for as long as you want it to be! You won't have to worry about taking it out in a few weeks or months, that hair can be yours! And when someone says to you, 'I love your hair', you won't have to feel guilty. You'll know that the pride, patience and care it took you to grow your luscious locks was well worth it.

 Here are the secrets to having beautiful hair that's the envy of all others.

Your hair is a true confession of what you eat. If your diet mainly consists of fast-food, processed food or little or no water or vitamins, your hair will show your diet history. Your hair tells a lot about your eating habits. It's like the DNA of your diet. Not only will your hair be dry, limp and dull, but you will also feel dull and lifeless too.

The key to amazing hair is a healthy diet. I know it may sound cliche but it's true. Try to focus on the two most important factors which are high quality proteins like tofu, fish and legumes. Also, make sure you have enough calories daily to maintain good health. Healthy hair also depends upon micronutrients like vitamins A, C, zinc and B complex. Make sure that you eat a well balanced diet. Add a variety of fruits and vegetables which are loaded with vitamins and antioxidants, whole grains for minerals, soy products for plant-based estrogens, nuts and seeds for minerals and vitamins, and lean protein for iron. You should also consider taking a multivitamin for assurance.

A total breakfast cereal high in fiber and nutrients will also help you get all of the other nutrients your body needs. You should also try to drink at least 8 to 10 glasses of water a day as this adds moisture to your skin and hair to give you an overall healthy glow. Here are some meal plans to help your journey to luminous, silky hair.

BREAKFAST: Bran cereal or a total breakfast cereal with skim or soy milk and a fruit. Orange Juice or Grapefruit juice.

LUNCH: Tuna sandwich on whole or stone-ground bread with dark green lettuce and tomatoes. Tossed salad with tomatoes, green and/or red peppers and soy or skim milk. Fruit.

DINNER: Roast beef, or chicken breast. Brown rice or sweet-mashed potatoes, mixed-fruit and low-fat soy milk.

10 Chemicals to Avoid Putting In your Hair

1. ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: This is a solvent and denaturant (poisonous substance that changes another substances natural qualities). Isopropyl alcohol is found in hair color rinses, body rubs, hand lotions, after-shave lotions, fragrances and many other cosmetics. This petroleum-derived substance is also used in antifreeze and as a solvent in shellac. Napptural hair reacts very badly to isoalcohol and this ingredient should be avoided at ALL costs. It will dry your hair out and break it off. According to A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, inhalation or ingestion of the vapor may cause headaches, flushing, dizziness, mental depression, nausea, vomiting, narcosis and even coma in extreme cases. 

2. MINERAL OIL & PETROLATUM: The best baby oil is made from almonds. But the oil which being sold as baby oil is 100% mineral oil. Mineral oil is a derivative of crude oil (petroleum) that is used industrially as a cutting fluid and lubricating oil. This commonly used petroleum ingredient coats the skin and hair just like plastic wrap. The skin's natural barrier is disrupted as this plastic coating inhibits its ability to breathe and absorb the Natural Moisture Factor (moisture and nutrition). The skin's ability to release toxins and wastes is impossible through this "plastic wrap," which can promote acne and other disorders. It further hinders normal skin respiration/transpiration by keeping oxygen out. This process slows down skin function and normal cell development causing the skin to prematurely age. Holding in large a mounts of moisture in the skin can "flood" the biology and may result in immature, unhealthy, sensitive skin that dries out easily. Petrolatum - A petroleum-based grease that is used industrially as a grease component. Petrolatum exhibits many of the same potentially harmful properties as mineral oil.
Honestly, this stuff belongs in your engine, not on your hair. Regardless of "Well, my Grandma used vaseline on her hair and it grew ", the bottom line is this stuff is bad. It was bad for Grandma and it is bad for you. Period.

3. PEG: This is an abbreviation for polyethylene glycol that is used in making cleansers to dissolve oil and grease as well as thicken products. Because of their effectiveness, PEG's are often used in caustic spray on oven cleaners and yet are found in many personal care products. PEG's contribute to stripping the Natural Moisture Factor, leaving the immune system vulnerable. They are also potentially carcinogenic. 

4. PROPYLENE GLYCOL (PG): As a "surfactant" or wetting agent and solvent, this ingredient is actually the active component in antifreeze. There is no difference between the PG used in industry and the PG used in personal care products. It is used in industry to break down protein and cellular structure (what the skin is made of) yet is found in most forms of make-up, hair products, lotions, after-shave, deodorants, mouthwashes and toothpaste. It is also used in food processing. Because of its ability to quickly penetrate the skin, the EPA requires workers to wear protective gloves, clothing and goggles when working with this toxic substance. The Material Safety Data Sheets warn against skin contact, as PG has systemic consequences such as brain, liver and kidney abnormalities. Consumers are not protected nor is there a warning label on products such as stick deodorants, where the concentration is greater than that in most industrial applications.

5. SODIUM LAURYL SUFATE (SLS) & SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (SLES): SLS is used in testing labs as the standard ingredient to irritate skin. Used as detergents and surfactants, these closely related compounds are found in car wash soaps, garage floor cleaners and engine degreasers. Yet both SLS and SLES are used more widely as one of the major ingredients in cosmetics, toothpaste, hair conditioner and about 90% of all shampoos and products that foam. They are used in personal-care products because they are cheap. A small amount generates a large amount of foam, and when salt is added it thicken to give the illusion of being thick and concentrated. (SOME OF THE NITROSATING AGENTS ARE: SLS, SLES, DEA, TEA, MEA). Shampooing the hair with a product contaminated with these substances can lead to its absorption into the body at levels much higher than eating nitrite-contaminated foods.
Mark Fearer in an article, Dangerous Beauty, says, "...in tests, animals that were exposed to SLS experienced eye damage, along with depression, labored breathing, diarrhea, severe skin irritation and corrosion and death." According to the American College of Toxicology states both SLS and SLES can cause malformation in children's eyes. Other research has indicated SLS may be damaging to the immune system, especially within the skin. Skin layers may separate and inflame due to its protein denaturing properties. It is possibly the most dangerous of ad ingredients in personal care products. Research has shown that SLS when combined with other chemicals can be transformed into nitrosamines, a potent class of carcinogens, which causes the body to absorb nitrates at higher levels than eating nitrate contaminated food." According to the American College of Toxicity report, "SLS stays in the body for up to five days..." Other studies have indicated that SLS easily penetrates through the skin and enters and maintains residual levels in the heart, the liver, the lungs and the brain. This poses serious questions regarding its potential health threat through its use in shampoos, cleansers and toothpaste," Studies show its danger potential to be great when used in personal-care products. Toxicity - A serious problem with these chemicals is that they may be contaminated with NDELA (N-nitrosodiethanolamine), one of the nitrosamines and a potent carcinogen, according to a 1978 FDA report.Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) - SLES is the alcohol form (ethoxylated) of SLS. It is slightly less irritating than SLS, but may be more drying. Both SLS and SLES can enter the blood stream. They may cause potentially carcinogenic formations of nitrates and dioxins to form in shampoos and cleansers by reacting with other product ingredients. Large amounts of nitrates may enter the blood system from just one shampooing. Contains ether.

6. CHLORINE: According to Doris J. Rapp, M.D., author of Is This your Child's World? exposure to chlorine in tap water, Showers, pool, laundry products, cleaning agents, food processing, sewage systems and many others, can effect health by contributing to asthma, hay fever, anemia, bronchitis, circulatory collapse, confusion, delirium diabetes, dizziness, irritation of the eye, mouth, nose throat, lung, skin and stomach, heart disease, high blood pressure and nausea. It is also a possible cause ofcancer. Even though you will not see Chlorine on personal care product labels, it is important for you to be aware of the need to protect your skin when bathing and washing your hair. 

7. DEA (diethanolamine) MEA (momoethnanolamine) TEA (triethanolamine): DEA and MEA are usual listed on the ingredients label in conjunction with the compound being neutralized. Thus look for names like Cocamide DEA or MES, Lauramide DEA, etc. These are hormone disrupting chemicals and are known to form cancer causing nitrates and nitrosamines. . These are commonly found in most personal care products that foam, including bubble baths, body washes, shampoos, soaps and facial cleansers. On the show, CBS This Morning, Roberta Baskin revealed that a recent government report shows DEA and MEA are readily absorbed in the skin. Dr. Samuel Epstein, Professor of Environmental Health at the University of Illinois said "repeated skin applications of DEA-based detergents resulted in a major increase in the incidence of two cancers - liver and kidney cancers." John Bailey, who oversees the cosmetic division for the FDA said the new study is especial important since "the risk equation changes significantly for children." 

8. FD & C Color PIGMENTS: Many color pigments cause skin sensitivity and irritation. Absorption of certain colors can cause depletion of oxygen in the body and even death according to A Consumer's dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients. Debra Lynn Dadd says in Home Safe Home: "Colors that can be used in foods, drug, and cosmetics are made from coal tar. There is a great deal of controversy about their use, because animal studies have shown almost all of them to be carcinogenic." 

9. FRAGRANCE: Fragrance is present in most deodorants shampoos, sunscreens, skin care, body care and baby products. Many of the compounds in fragrance are carcinogenic or otherwise toxic. "Fragrance on a label can indicate the presence of up to 4,000 separate ingredients. Most or all of them are synthetic. Symptoms reported to the FDA have included headaches, dizziness, rashes, skin discoloration, violent coughing and vomiting, and allergic skin irritation. Clinical observation by medical doctors have shown that exposure to fragrances can affect the central nervous system, causing depression, hyperactivity, irritability, inability to cope, and other behavioral changes," (Home Safe Home).
For better health try purchasing unscented products and for fragrance, adding a natural essential oil.

10. IMIDAZOLIDINYL UREA and DMDM HYDANTOIN: These are just two of the many preservatives that release formaldehyde (formaldehyde-donors). According to the Mayo clinic, formaldehyde can irritate the respiratory system, cause skin reactions and trigger heart palpitations. Exposure to formaldehyde may cause joint pain, allergies, depression, headaches, chest pains, ear infections, Chronic fatigue, dizziness and loss of sleep. It can also aggravate coughs and colds and trigger asthma. Serious side effects include weakening of the immune system and cancer. Nearly all brands of skin, body and hair care, antiperspirants and nail polish found in stores contain formaldehyde-releasing ingredients.

NATURAL HAIR!

Natural is in! Or is it? It has been noticed that when females enter college, mainly African American race, they decide to go natural and stop putting chemicals into their hair; however, how does this affect their love lives? How do the men perceive natural hair? Does it make them stand out, or does it lead to their demise? Finally, from a man’s point of view, natural hair is addressed.

 

            Natural hair is still awaiting its approval in this harsh society. Society has out casted natural hair and deemed it to be perceived as “nappy.”

 

            “I went natural 4 months ago,” Sophomore, Nnemoma Chukwumerije began. “It’s so much harder for a guy to take a second look at me, but I love it and I’m embracing it.”

 

            But what, may we ask, be the reason guys say no to natural and yes to straight hair? Charles Walton, 22, has an answer:

 

            “It’s something about straight hair that turns us men on.”

Walton continued by explaining that it's so much easier to run his fingers through straight hair than an Afro. 

"Now, if she's natural and she straightens her hair all the time, that's a different story! I just don't wanna deal with tangles when I simply wanna play in my girl's hair: that's a problem."

But not all men feel this way. Surprisingly enough, a Caucasian male thought differently. Jordan White, 19, loves to see a woman rocking her natural hair. He went on to say that its an important trait when looking for a woman that she is comfortable in her own skin and that she embraces everything God gave her and that she loves herself for it. 

Hairdresser Alicia Jones has been doing hair for years now and can recall the many debates that have gone on in the salon addressing natural hair and relaxed hair. Jones, having been both natural and relaxed, can play the devil's advocate in the situation since she knows the pros and cons of both. 

"It's important to know the good and bad of both sides. I always say don't knock it until you try it."

Jones has been natural for almost 12 years but used to get relaxers faithfully. Her mother began perming her hair when she was 9 years old and had Jones known what this would do to her hair, she says she would have not gotten it because the intensity of the relaxer eventually made her hair fall off in 9th grade, which began her journey back to natural hair.

Jones never knew that she had curly hair until going natural and now she loves it! 

"Taking care of permed hair is way more stressful than natural hair. I can pretty much do what I want with my hair now. Straightened or curly, I get the best of both worlds! Relaxed hair is very tricky, you must get relaxers every 6-8 weeks, can't wash it as often, and because it's chemicals, your hair is automatically weaker. But if someone is getting a perm, it should be when they are confident in hair maintenance. I personally don't think children should get perms which is why I don't allow perms on children's hair in my salon."

This concept of natural or straight hair goes back to the classic concept of beauty being in the eye of the beholder, however, media has a lot to do with this issue. Media often times instructs society on what is beautiful or acceptable in terms of physicality. Whether people see straightened hair as convenient or conformity, it's a preference nonetheless. 

So does this mean that the majority of the African American Male population is supressing the Black woman by encouraging her to Either straighten her hair or style it with a weave instead of embracing what she has? Society must face that hair is much more than just follicles, but rather a being!